One by one, the power supplies for my Rpi2 and Rpi3 computers
are failing. They came with CanaKit and Vilros kits and are
now pushing four years old.
I'd prefer to buy from Amazon, since it's worked well in the
past, but the number of choices is bewildering and few look
particulary well-matched to the Pi's needs, most being chargers
and just slightly below the Pi's current requirements.
Separate supplies (avoiding common points of failure) seem
desirable and I'm not reluctant to pull out a soldering iron
to adapt a Pi power cable to a generic wallwart.
If somebody knows of a good solution please post.
Thanks for reading,
bob prohaska
If somebody knows of a good solution please post.
One by one, the power supplies for my Rpi2 and Rpi3 computers
are failing. They came with CanaKit and Vilros kits and are
now pushing four years old.
I'd prefer to buy from Amazon, since it's worked well in the
past, but the number of choices is bewildering and few look
particulary well-matched to the Pi's needs, most being chargers
and just slightly below the Pi's current requirements.
Separate supplies (avoiding common points of failure) seem
desirable and I'm not reluctant to pull out a soldering iron
to adapt a Pi power cable to a generic wallwart.
One by one, the power supplies for my Rpi2 and Rpi3 computers
are failing. They came with CanaKit and Vilros kits and are
now pushing four years old.
I'd prefer to buy from Amazon, since it's worked well in the
past, but the number of choices is bewildering and few look
particulary well-matched to the Pi's needs, most being chargers
and just slightly below the Pi's current requirements.
Separate supplies (avoiding common points of failure) seem
desirable and I'm not reluctant to pull out a soldering iron
to adapt a Pi power cable to a generic wallwart.
bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net> wrote:
One by one, the power supplies for my Rpi2 and Rpi3 computers
are failing. They came with CanaKit and Vilros kits and are
now pushing four years old.
I'd prefer to buy from Amazon, since it's worked well in the
past, but the number of choices is bewildering and few look
particulary well-matched to the Pi's needs, most being chargers
and just slightly below the Pi's current requirements.
Separate supplies (avoiding common points of failure) seem
desirable and I'm not reluctant to pull out a soldering iron
to adapt a Pi power cable to a generic wallwart.
These days I'm generally using multi-port power bricks, rather than >wall-warts. You don't pay a lot more and you get tens of watts, often using >USB-PD or some other quick charge protocol. They have a removable power
cord which makes them more convenient to have on a desk than a wallwart near >the floor. Multi ports makes it easy to power all your USB widgets from one >wall socket.
Random example (no experience with this brand): >https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Nekteck-Desktop-Charging-Station/dp/B0712252ZQ/
This guy is Danish, so not always relevant to US suppliers, but does a good >job of reviewing them - I especially like the 'death' score for how >dangerously the device is constructed. >https://lygte-info.dk/info/ChargerIndex%20UK.html
If you read through those you can probably get a feel for which brands are >good and which are lethal.
A common charger likely connects all USB to the same ground (of the charger) This _may_ cause problems if sending for example audio or video from one raspi to the other.
as the power / USB cables drop signifcant voltage.
I have had hum and noise problems in audio.
Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote:
A common charger likely connects all USB to the same ground (of the charger) >> This _may_ cause problems if sending for example audio or video from one raspi to the other.
as the power / USB cables drop signifcant voltage.
I have had hum and noise problems in audio.
That's a good point I didn't think about. There don't seem to be any
noise problems now and avoiding shared grounds is probably a good idea.
The wallwarts are all transformer isolated, best to keep it that way.
One issue for me is the plug orientation. When the prongs are in-line
with the body of the wart they fit nicely on my outlet strip. Seems that
most of the highter-output warts have transverse prongs, so the warts
collide with each other along the outlet strip.
For the moment I might try re-flowing the solder joints I can get at
on the failed unit in hopes a little more life can be wrung out of it.
The caps look good and nothing is obviously cooked.
On a sunny day (Fri, 4 Feb 2022 22:29:55 -0000 (UTC)) it happened bob prohaska
<bp@www.zefox.net> wrote in <stk9d3$ijg$1@dont-email.me>:
Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote:
A common charger likely connects all USB to the same ground (of the charger)
This _may_ cause problems if sending for example audio or video from one >>> raspi to the other.
as the power / USB cables drop signifcant voltage.
I have had hum and noise problems in audio.
That's a good point I didn't think about. There don't seem to be any
noise problems now and avoiding shared grounds is probably a good idea.
The wallwarts are all transformer isolated, best to keep it that way.
One issue for me is the plug orientation. When the prongs are in-line
with the body of the wart they fit nicely on my outlet strip. Seems that
most of the highter-output warts have transverse prongs, so the warts
collide with each other along the outlet strip.
Yes, a common problem:
http://panteltje.com/pub/floor_warts_IXIMG_0790.JPG
and that is just my 'programming table'.
Yes, a common problem:
http://panteltje.com/pub/floor_warts_IXIMG_0790.JPG
and that is just my 'programming table'.
On Sat, 05 Feb 2022 08:44:39 GMT
Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote:
Yes, a common problem:
http://panteltje.com/pub/floor_warts_IXIMG_0790.JPG
and that is just my 'programming table'.
That would be a very bad place for a dog to run through.
Hello Ahem!
Saturday February 05 2022 11:53, you wrote to Jan Panteltje:
On Sat, 05 Feb 2022 08:44:39 GMT
Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote:
Yes, a common problem:
http://panteltje.com/pub/floor_warts_IXIMG_0790.JPG
and that is just my 'programming table'.
That would be a very bad place for a dog to run through.
Wow, that has some resemblence of my lounge when we downsized to our new >house where the room (and many others only have one power outlet).
I put up with it for 1 - 2 years where I had two multi connectors that hold 6 >7 sockets before asking a electrician to put in a stack more (4 doubles with >two having USB outlets) plus many others around the house as some only had a >single outlet.
At the same time as the flooring was up on the first floor got him to wire in >Cat 6 Network cables between my study and my wife's one as well as the lounge >but I had to redo it as despite me telling him NOT to run the wire close to >power cable he did, so I re did it all properly so now have 1Gb - 10Gb >transfer
speeds around the house although only 210Gb cable service as the price really >jumps up in costs as you increase speed but there again you cannot easily make >use of the faster speeds as most uploaders are running closer to 20Mb.
The electrician looked at the cable inside one of the sockets and the other >end
and saw that the wiring was using nickel from the 60's (as against modern >copper).
Now before we purchased the property I used a socket tester on All sockets >around the house and looked at the distribution panel (having opened it) and >it
had modern wiring i.e., using colour coded cable from the last set of >standards
that was only a couple of years earlier. However it turned out the people >selling had replaced the cable in it up to a foot or two up into the trunking >taping old and new wiring, to hide it no doubt.
7,500 pounds later the house had a total rewire plus the cost of redecorations >which was a similar amount but now I have all the various electronics >connected
up around the TV, media computer etc but instead of using the power adaptors >that power a USB cable I just plug the cable in to the USB socket on the power >outlets. The two studies we use have also had a major increase in power >sockets and almost at the same time replace all the lighting bulbs for Leds >hopefully saving power bills for the future.
Needless to say the wiring is a lot neater other than the cables connected >that
are some time a bit longer, dangling on the floor but hidden behind the TV >cabinet / cupboard.
Yes I must admit I would have liked to have taken legal action against the >seller but they did not lie on the request for information about the house - >as
they specified they did not know about electrics so could blame their late >father.
Teaches you to double check on a possible new house by getting a electrician >it
to do a solid check as against my quicky.
Good that's off my chest, sorry for the long winded post :)
Vincent
Yes, a common problem:
http://panteltje.com/pub/floor_warts_IXIMG_0790.JPG
and that is just my 'programming table'.
For the moment I might try re-flowing the solder joints I can get at
I did a 'bad hack' once with my Kodak picture display,
just cut the wire open from the wall-wart to the display
and added a 1000 uF elecrolytic capacitor in parallel :-)
No need to open the thing, was not easy anyways.
Just looked, yes its still in there (taped closed) :-)
On a sunny day (Fri, 4 Feb 2022 22:29:55 -0000 (UTC)) it happened bob prohaska
<bp@www.zefox.net> wrote in <stk9d3$ijg$1@dont-email.me>:
Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote:
A common charger likely connects all USB to the same ground (of the charger)
This _may_ cause problems if sending for example audio or video from one raspi to the other.
as the power / USB cables drop signifcant voltage.
I have had hum and noise problems in audio.
That's a good point I didn't think about. There don't seem to be any
noise problems now and avoiding shared grounds is probably a good idea.
The wallwarts are all transformer isolated, best to keep it that way.
One issue for me is the plug orientation. When the prongs are in-line
with the body of the wart they fit nicely on my outlet strip. Seems that >>most of the highter-output warts have transverse prongs, so the warts >>collide with each other along the outlet strip.
Yes, a common problem:
http://panteltje.com/pub/floor_warts_IXIMG_0790.JPG
and that is just my 'programming table'.
Yes, messing with electricity is bad, but gas is worse, and that's what I had >to contend with :(
Called the gas people immediately and shut off the supply - fortunately it was >late summer.
They came along, fitted a new meter, and left only the small kitchen boiler >connected.
On a sunny day (Sun, 6 Feb 2022 09:06:31 +0000) it happened Folderol <general@musically.me.uk> wrote in <20220206090631.7bde5f6d@devuan>:
Yes, messing with electricity is bad, but gas is worse, and that's what
I had to contend with :(
Called the gas people immediately and shut off the supply - fortunately
it was late summer.
They came along, fitted a new meter, and left only the small kitchen
boiler connected.
Yes same here, guy fitted a 'smart' gas meter, thing made banging noises. called the emergeny gas phone line,
other guy came and replaced the gas meter,
he said "You won't believe what I have seen".
I have a gas detector in the house now.
Just to placate the safety folks concerned I might be overloading
the house branch circuit, a Kill-a-Watt device monitors the load,
which is rarely over 300W unless the laser printer is running.
Amazon is selling "official" Raspberry Pi 4 wallwarts
for about $8 each with USB C connectors. I can splice in
the old micro-USB cables, leaving the USB C connectors
available if/when I upgrade the Pi2s. A flying splice is
not a big deal at five volts, if not very pretty. Of the
first six power supplies purchased half are now dead.
Given that a couple of the reviews report DOA, is there
an easy way to check the supply voltage without plugging
into a Pi4 (the 8 GB versions are unobtainium ATM)? Is
it physically possible to probe the USB C connector pins?
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